This a less expensive alternative to the metal stands ($250 each) sold at appliance stores. It is also possible to customize the height of the stand to fit your space perfectly. The two stands shown in the pictures above are yes, one for my daughter and one for my wife. The white base was made to match the style of my daughters home. The open concept one was to increase storage in our laundry at home. These are real back savers, you won't have to bend down to get things in or out of the washer or dryer.
Material List; Material Cost; $94
3 - 2x4's 8 ft long
1 - 4x4 8 ft long
3/4 in. plywood
4 - 5/16 in. lag screws
1 - tube of PL premium
1 - small box of 2 in. deck screws
6 - 3" long wood screws
1 - 6 ft of decorative wood base
This set of instructions is for the open concept stand. First cut the 2x4's to the width of your available opening. We will use the end cuts to complete our framing. Notice we left a space at the back of the deck for the dryer vent. If you vent is higher on your wall you won't need this opening on your deck.
Now take a look at your machines. Do they have all of the controls on the front? Then figure out what height your stand should be at. If your machines don't have all of the controls on the front you can still use a stand just leave enough room to reach the controls.
Cut your 4x4 legs 3/4 of an inch shorter than your final stand height, because we have to account for the 3/4 inch plywood deck will place on top. Now take those 3 4x4 legs and cut a notch in them as shown below. We want our frame to rest in that notch and give us long lasting dependable support.
A good way to notch the is to set your circular saw to a depth of 1-1/2 inches deep and make that cut first. The set your saw for maximum depth and make the 3-1/2 inch deep cut. It won't probably cut that deep but you can easily finish it with a hand saw. Yes they still make those and people still use them.
This the moment you have been waiting for. Take your frame, without putting the deck on yet and get ready to lag screw it to the wall. Make sure you locate those studs as mentioned in one of my Tuesday Tips. Just click here to view that tip. Also make sure that before you lag it to the wall that you put your legs under the front framing and level everything up.
Another tip is to pre-drill the holes the lag screws will go through just a little bit bigger than the diameter of the lag screws. This will cause the lag screw to cinch the frame really tight to the wall. Drill a hole into the stud that is sized smaller than the diameter of your lag screws.
Do the same thing to your 2x4 frame and legs. First take the drill that is smaller than the diameter of your screws and pre-drill a hole through the 2x4 frame and into the 4x4 leg. Next enlarge the hole in the 2x4 framing only with a drill bit that is a little larger than the screw diameter. With the frame fastened to your wall place a little PL Premium into the notches of your 4x4 legs and screw them in place using the 3 inch screws by placing the screw into the 2x4 frame and tightening it down. Wipe up any glue that exudes out during the process.
With the framing lagged to the wall and the legs secured you are now ready to measure up for you 3/4 inch plywood deck. Measure twice and cut once is the rule for any good carpenter. When you have the perfect piece of plywood cut glue it and screw it down. It should look something like this, if your dryer is on the right. I like dryer on the right because it makes for a good work flow of laundry from the washer to the dryer without having the doors reversed.
Now measure the front and the side of your washer and dryer stand and cut base board that you selected. I cut the corner on a 45 degree angle to make it look nice and finished. Note; I installed the base upside down to give it a more formal look. I also installed it higher than the deck to prevent the washer from vibrating off the stand. Just nail it in place with some finish nails. Now you can stain or paint your stand and finally reinstall your washer and dryer. I love the dryer vent periscope. It is a solid connection without any flexible pipe which can clog. If it is too long you can cut it and refit it back together again. I hook it up to the back of the dryer first then (because my vent hole is at floor level) I attach it the exhaust pipe in the wall. Because the dryer is up on the deck I can reach under to make that final connection. No more hanging over the back of the dryer or pulling out the washing machine to make it happen.
I was going to include a picture of me actually doing the laundry. But that wouldn't be very honest. I am truly spoiled by my wonderful wife. But I can appreciate what a back saver the stand is on the occasions when I have put my clothes in the shrinking machine. Yeah me too, I'm not getting bigger....my clothes are getting smaller.