Material List Cost $150.00
7 – 2” x 4” 8 foot long
2 sheets of ¾” MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard)
1 sheet of ½” plywood
1 – 2” x 6” 8 foot long
1 – 2” x 8” 8 foot long
1 tube of PL Premium (Loctite)
6 – 4” lag screws 5/16” in diameter and washers
1 piece of melamine shelving 8 foot long
one small box of 16 penny nails or 3” deck screws
Note: I used a router to round all of the edges and sanded everything before securing it.
We start by making the bed frame with 2 x 4’s. Note the drawing and dimensions. Also note that the one sheet of ½” plywood is cut to the outside dimensions of the completed frame. I like to install the bedframe to the wall then attach the plywood to the installed frame. It is easier to secure the frame to the wall with the lag screws before the top goes on. Make sure you locate the studs in the wall, predrill the holes and then lag screw the frame to the studs. Refer to my post on the “Living Room shelf” for stud locating tips. Refer to the same post for selecting the correct size drill. Cutting a 2” x 4” to a length of 2’ 2 ¾” will act as a perfect leg to help hold the bedframe in position while you secure the bed frame to the wall.
The cut piece of plywood can now be glued and nailed or screwed to the bedframe. Be careful not get any glue on the carpet or you may not be considered a “Super Hero”!
Use a piece of ¾” MDF for the front of the bed. Note that it does not go under the slide. This allows for a secret entrance to the cave under the bed. I rounded the corner at the top to make it a little more user friendly for your super hero’s. I know they’re tough but why test them. You can now cut the two stringers for the slide. We will use two 2” x 4” for this purpose. You can get the correct angle to cut the 2” x 4” at by putting the 2” x 4” on the bed frame and marking the angle created by the front section of MDF. After you have cut both slide stringers attach them to a piece of 2” x 8” that has been cut to a length of 16” (the finished slide width will be about 16”). The two stringers attached to the 2” x 8” will attach to the side of the bed to anchor the stringers for the slide.
Next cut the melamine shelf material to the correct length for your slide. We will use ¾” MDF to create the sides to our slide. You can glue it in place and screw if from the undersurface (make certain the screw length is correct or you will come out through the top of the slide surface. You can opt to glue it in place and screw it from the top if you countersink the screw heads (the screw heads will be way over on the side of the slide and not cause a problem for your Super Heroes).
The landing for the staircase is next. It is made up of three 2 x 4’s and one 2 x 6 note the dimensions and make your cuts. It can be put together with deck screws or 16 penny nails. The landing is screwed to the bedframe and lag screwed to the wall (hit a stud). A piece of ¾” MDF should be cut to create the deck of the landing. Don’t attach it just yet. It is nice to have a little space when you want to secure the stairs to the landing.
Cut a 2 x 6 to a length of 3 feet 1 ¼ inches long. Take that board and mark an angle of approximately 54 degrees (the bottom angle) and approximately 36 degrees (the top angle). This will create a stringer for one side of your stairs. Check the length of the board and the accuracy of your angles by placing the 2 x 6 against the top of the landing. If all has worked out well create a second stringer for the other side of the staircase. You can precut your stair treads to a length of 13” in length. You will need 4 treads at this length. Take a stringer and again place it against the landing. With a level mark 4 equally distanced lines that will serve as your guide for nailing the stair treads to the stringers. The first line for the first stair should be 6 3/16 inches off the floor. This line represents the top of the first stair. Repeat the process for each stair tread, the top of the next should be 6 3/16 inches up from the last tread. (Note when you put the ¾ inch MDF on the top of the landing it will match up with the height of each step on the staircase.) Now repeat the process with the other stringer, marking the height of each stair tread that will make up your staircase.
Nail that puppy together and secure it to the top of the landing ( again it should stick up about ¾ of an inch to match up with the deck we will place on the landing). You can get fancy and use hangers to attach the stairs (found at your local lumber company) or you can nail them in place against the 2 x 6 of the landing. Now is the time to secure the MDF landing board.
The remaining item to cut out is the side panel of MDF that covers the staircase and is the entrance to the “secret cave”. Refer to the drawing below.